Installation & Operation of the 32KLP 5th Wheel Hitch

NOTE: Every trailer hitch is shipped with a handle extension kit used to operate the hitch locking mechanism from outside of the truck body. This kit consists of an extension handle and an extension hook. Make sure your installer has given it to you.

The base of the 5th wheel hitch must be bolted to the truck’s frame members. This can be accomplished in a number of ways. Most common and recommended is to install a ½" thick steel plate over the complete area of the 5th wheel hitch base which extends to both frame members and then bolt the hitch to it. Often on we see the sheet of steel 40” wide which extends over both sides of the frame by 3”. You can then bolt a piece of 3” angle iron to the frame and to the sheet of steel. If the trailer hitch is still too tall in this configuration, you can use a narrower sheet of steel and bolt it inside the frame members. The base of the fifth wheel hitch has 8 predrilled holes that you can use. 6 of these holes match the hole pattern of the TSLB2H hitch if you want to upgrade in the future. Keep in mind that the TSLB2H is much longer and will require about 34” of length.

Or, you may install two 3/4" x 6" steel plates which extend to both frame members and then attach the fifth wheel hitch to them using the pre-drilled holes in the base of the hitch. When fastening the cross members to the frame, be sure to fasten them to the face of the frame. It will be necessary to install vertical members to the face of the frame and then bolt the cross members to them. Grade 5 or grade 8 bolts of ½” diameter must be used for all bolting configurations. You must use all (8 holes) of the predrilled holes in the hitch base. Other options may work; consult with your installer for more ways to fasten the 32kLP rigid fifth wheel hitch to your truck.

Hooking up your trailer

(before continuing, read “Auto Lock Position” close to the end)

Step 1 Make sure the unlatching handle of the hitch is in the "auto lock" position. The handle will be at a 90-degree angle from the centerline of the hitch or in the nine o’clock setting. It will be facing straight at you if you are standing on the left side of the truck facing the hitch.

Step 2 Back your truck to the trailer until the kingpin just enters the "V" of the hitch. At this time lower your trailer until it comes in contact with the kingpin plate. Put a small amount of pressure on the kingpin plate to assure that you are in the correct position for proper lockup.

Step 3 Now, back into the kingpin. The latching handle will move toward the rear of the hitch when it is locked in position. The spring loaded detent pin will move into position in front of the steel sliding locking bar to secure the locking mechanism. This is the eight o’clock setting. On the right side of the hitch there is a hole located in the channel that the steel bar slides in. You may install a padlock in it to prevent anybody from unlocking the hitch assembly. Do not go behind the truck to try and examine the jaw position. There are 2 issues here, if you are not locked, you do not want the trailer to fall on you. Second, just because the jaws are wrapped around the pin does not mean that they are latched. The locking bar must come back to keep the jaws closed.

CAUTION: ALWAYS TRY TO MOVE THE LOCKING HANDLE FORWARD AFTER HOOKING UP TO YOUR TRAILER TO MAKE SURE YOU ARE LOCKED IN POSITION!! If you cannot move the handle past the detent pin you are locked and ready for travel.

If you experience difficulty with the hitch jaws locking, check the condition of the trailer pin. It must be free from all burrs and paint buildup. The anti-friction pad must be tight against the pin box. We have also seen dirt and grease buildup on the pin from using a hitch with a thinner locking mechanism than we use. Any of the above conditions may cause the locking jaws not to lock.

Step 4 Now, raise the legs of the trailer, hook up your light cable and emergency breakaway cable.

Disconnecting from your trailer

After you have located your trailer in its final position and put in your wheel chocks, lower your trailer legs and apply downward pressure to pick up the trailer a little bit. At this time unlock the jaws on the Holland 5th wheel hitch. To do this you must first pull the spring loaded detent pin located on the left front side of the hitch, and while holding the pin move the unlatching handle forward, (towards the front of the truck) as far as it will go. This will be the ten o’clock setting. At this position, the detent pin will engage a hole in the sliding steel bar locking it open. Usually the jaws will open, however, if there is pressure against the kingpin, the jaws may not open, but the hitch is unlocked and as soon as you move your truck a fraction of an inch the jaws will open.

After you have relieved pressure from the hitch, you may now drive away from your trailer after disconnecting your cables.

Auto Lock Position

After you have pulled away from your trailer you may move the unlatching handle far enough forward to release the tension that is against the detent pin and then pull the pin and allow the unlatching handle to move rearward. This operation will allow the detent pin to rest against the sliding steel bar and be in the nine o’clock setting. This action puts the hitch in the "auto lock" position. Now when you back into the trailer kingpin, the jaws will automatically close.

If you elected not to do the above step, and instead leave the sliding bar locked open, you must manually lock the assembly. After backing into your trailer kingpin, manually pull the detent pin out of the hole so the steel bar will move rearward securing the locking jaws in place. If you do not do this, the trailer will separate from the hitch when you move forward with your truck. This is certainly not a good thing.

If you need technical support call (888) 823-8811.